Waterloo

Every so often the great battle at Waterloo is commemorated by a large re-enactment. This draws in folk from all over Europe who enjoy living the life of period soldiers and acting out great battles. We went on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys and were based in nearby Brussels with coaches to the battlefield.

A few words of historical context are needed. After the excesses of the French Revolution Napoleon became dictator in France in 1799. He was a great general and under his leadership French armies captured and occupied many European countries. His main opponent was Britain who successfully ruled the seas winning some great sea battles most notably Trafalgar. The main British land campaign was in the Spanish Peninsula where a small force under Wellington eventually became successful. Napoleon was defeated and exiled but escaped back to France. Napoleon was successful in both raising anew several armies and deposing the restored monarchy. Napoleon was marching on Belgium and Europe was convulsed by fear. An allied army was formed under Wellington to meet Napoleon.

After preliminary skirmishes the French army was confronted at Waterloo which is maybe 20 miles south of Brussels which was the French objective. The battle was decided in a single day which comprised Wellington doggedly defending against French attacks until late in the afternoon when a Prussian army arrived swinging the balance decisively so the French were defeated. Napoleon was exiled this time to St Helena where he later died.

This period is known as the Napoleonic wars and there were great fears of an invasion of England. Many defensive measures such as Martello towers still remain today. In many ways the period resembled the Hitler invasion threat of 1940-41. The battle at Waterloo was in 1815.

The first evening  we saw a son et lumiere production projected onto the Lion mound. This huge mound topped by a Lion statue commemorates a Dutch royal who was killed in the battle. We were able to sit in one of the stands erected for the occasion

The day before the main re-enactment we visited the allied army encampment. The actors take great pains to be historically accurate. It was fascinating to see great lines of tents where the actors would represent particular regiments. We also saw the cavalry riding by the main centre. The camp life was also authentic to an extent with cooking on open fires. We were able to talk with some of the actors..

Although it was getting into the evening we set off to walk to the French camp imagining it was quite near. We hadn’t got any map and followed a stream of visitors walking both ways. We walked for a long distance, at least a mile and a half but then gave up and turned back concerned not to miss our return coach. Also dusk was descending and we were just a little concerned about finding our way. The nearest public road was still some distance beyond the main venue. We walked back with some people from our party to find others waiting at the rendezvous point. By now it was dark and rather cold. Our coach eventually arrived about 2 hours after the agreed time. About half the party had gone on to the French camp with the coach. I was disgusted with the complete lack of organisation but so very pleased not to be stranded in the wilds of Belgium.

The following day was the main re-enactment of the battle. Because the actual battle was fought over a large area the re-enactment was contained in a large area surrounded  on two sides by temporary stands and the Lion mound on the third.. The coach was late, held up in traffic so we didn’t get the promised seat in the stands which were packed. To add to our misery it was raining. We got access to a stand so we could stand at height. It was very hard to make out what was happening. The public address was in French of course.

I was most surprised at the end when the actor playing Napoleon rode in front of the stands to a huge cheer. Clearly still well regarded although I saw it as more similar to a crowd applauding Hitler at a WW11 re-enactment. I couldn’t help but think that the blood and misery of the French revolution and Napoleonic wars are seen as glorious in France. While they had positive sides the misery inflicted on Europe surely outweighed any benefit. I suppose nationalism blinkers people to the real facts.

The day cleared up and we did visit the diorama of the battle and climbed the Lion mound. The main venue was more like a giant fair with all kinds of stalls.

For all those who remember “Blackadder back and forth” there is a humorous stab at a future where the French are victorious. As a character says” Waterloo didn’t change things, now who has the francs to pay for our meal”.

In reality Waterloo did decisively change things. Europe had essentially avoided totalitarian rule and enjoyed a century of peace until 1914. 

The battle with the Lion mound in the background as impromptu stand( yes it is in standing corn )

The British camp