Thursday, 6 August 2020

Liverpool in the Seventies

 

I was a research student at Liverpool College of Technology ( now John Moores University ) in the early 70’s. We had been living on the Wirral peninsula between the Mersey and the Dee since late 1965. Annette had earlier been a student at the College of Art in 1966-7. At that time Liverpool was a rather run down city with petty crime and vandalism rife. Students at the College of Art were advised to avoid some areas. Although such advice was never given to me it was understood that blocks of rundown flats adjacent to the college were to be avoided.

By that period the notorious Scotland Road with the college at its city end was much changed. A lot of the narrow streets with terraced houses had been demolished leaving only the street footprint in a still undeveloped wasteland. Scotland Road itself had been widened and led to the second Mersey tunnel then newly opened. It was almost free of foot traffic as the houses around had been demolished. The flats were all that remained.. These were not tower blocks but rather 4 storey blocks built around courtyards. Once seeking a shortcut I went by the flats and out into a demolition area. Clearly a stranger I was accosted by a group of young children; I would think all below school age. Almost as a reflex they threw clods of earth and stones at me; a stranger in their territory. I didn’t feel threatened but it was unpleasant.

A few times I went with my colleagues to the pub over the road. It was just about as basic as a pub could be with its split vinyl seating. This was around the perimeter of the public ( and only ) bar. There were no tables or chairs. I guess it was the local for the flats. When we went in the early evening after finishing for the day there was no atmosphere of aggression just one of poverty and sadness. We only went because it was a convenient quiet alternative to the students union bar. Typically the corner shop where we bought tea and coffee ( called “Jim’s” but no name over the door ) ) was like a mini-fortress. Windows boarded up so entering the dim interior you were met with a grill. You had to ask for your needs which were fetched from the rear.

Ironically this was only a few hundred yards from the cultural centre of the city with St Georges Hall, Williamson Art Gallery and City Library. All of these were Victorian gems. I had plenty of contact with the library and I was always amazed by its splendid interior. Towards the river was the commercial area, much reduced but still even with its own Stock Exchange plus many insurance, shipping etc company offices. A little further beyond the cultural centre was the main shopping area. The centre of Liverpool was quite normal and one had no fears walking there even after dark.

I did once venture with student friends to a dock side pub. While there was no overt aggression we were made to feel distinctly uncomfortable and left after one drink. As everywhere the pubs were widely variable. In keeping with the cities Victorian character there were pubs which retained something of that feel with lots of etched glass. The stand out pub with this character was the Philharmonic. This was situated just opposite the Philharmonic Hall, the main concert venue and base for the Royal Liverpool Philharmonic Orchestra. This pub cultivated Victorian/ Edwardian décor and was immensely popular on concert nights.

Generally there were few tall buildings. The ones which stood out were the contrasting Anglican and Roman Catholic cathedrals. The Anglican Cathedral was as notable for its sheer size as its height and was in a traditional Gothic style. The Roman Catholic Cathedral was completely different being an ultramodern truncated cone with its top surrounded by mini spires. Rather ironically the eye was rather caught by an immense square tower which was part of the Mersey Tunnel ventilation. This was set just behind the famous “Three graces” on the waterfront. ( the Liver building, Cunard Building and Mersey Docks and Harbour Board building )  In the city centre there is a tall column with a rotating restaurant at the top. This column is partly a chimney for the heating of the large shopping complex underneath. As a special 30th birthday treat we had a meal in the restaurant which enjoyed magnificent views over Merseyside. Sadly the restaurant closed in the 80’s because of its vulnerability to terrorism and is now HQ for a radio station..

Although historic Anglican/Catholic rivalry remained it was much reduced. Traditional football support remained with Liverpool protestant and Everton catholic. This religious association has died out. The intense rivalry was illustrated by the Everton supporter saying she hoped both teams won, “Everton and Everton reserves”. Whether from religious bias I  doubt but most folk around me were vehement Liverpool supporters. Certainly at that time Liverpool were doing very well and Bill Shankly  ( Liverpool manager ) anecdotes were ever present. There was his famous quote when asked if football was a matter of life or death to which he replied it was more serious than that.

The 12th of July did see Orange day parades by militant protestants but these were small and in my experience drew small audiences. The pop music heritage, prominent today, was tiny. Even the Cavern Club ( the Beatles Liverpool venue ) had closed although NEMS ( Brian Epstein’s shop ) was still open.

Easily the best part of the city was the  approach to pier head. The river was always active although by this time big passenger ships were no longer in evidence. Most of the ships were commercial freighters plus tankers going to the oil terminal just upriver . The Isle of Man ferry was the most common passenger vessel. The Birkenhead ferry was operated by two ships crossing in the middle of the river. To sit on the upper deck of the ferry as it prepared to leave Hamilton Square terminal was to see the city at its best which only improved as pier head approached and the “three graces” provided a wonderful frontispiece.


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