I was a
research student at Liverpool College of Technology ( now John Moores
University ) in the early 70’s. We had been living on the Wirral peninsula
between the Mersey and the Dee since late 1965. Annette had earlier been a
student at the College of Art in 1966-7. At that time Liverpool was a rather
run down city with petty crime and vandalism rife. Students at the College of
Art were advised to avoid some areas. Although such advice was never given to
me it was understood that blocks of rundown flats adjacent to the college were
to be avoided.
By that period
the notorious Scotland Road with the college at its city end was much changed.
A lot of the narrow streets with terraced houses had been demolished leaving
only the street footprint in a still undeveloped wasteland. Scotland Road
itself had been widened and led to the second Mersey tunnel then newly opened.
It was almost free of foot traffic as the houses around had been demolished.
The flats were all that remained.. These were not tower blocks but rather 4
storey blocks built around courtyards. Once seeking a shortcut I went by the
flats and out into a demolition area. Clearly a stranger I was accosted by a
group of young children; I would think all below school age. Almost as a reflex
they threw clods of earth and stones at me; a stranger in their territory. I didn’t
feel threatened but it was unpleasant.
A few times I
went with my colleagues to the pub over the road. It was just about as basic as
a pub could be with its split vinyl seating. This was around the perimeter of
the public ( and only ) bar. There were no tables or chairs. I guess it was the
local for the flats. When we went in the early evening after finishing for the
day there was no atmosphere of aggression just one of poverty and sadness. We
only went because it was a convenient quiet alternative to the students union
bar. Typically the corner shop where we bought tea and coffee ( called “Jim’s”
but no name over the door ) ) was like a mini-fortress. Windows boarded up so
entering the dim interior you were met with a grill. You had to ask for your
needs which were fetched from the rear.
Ironically this
was only a few hundred yards from the cultural centre of the city with St
Georges Hall, Williamson Art Gallery and City Library. All of these were
Victorian gems. I had plenty of contact with the library and I was always
amazed by its splendid interior. Towards the river was the commercial area,
much reduced but still even with its own Stock Exchange plus many insurance,
shipping etc company offices. A little further beyond the cultural centre was the
main shopping area. The centre of Liverpool was quite normal and one had no
fears walking there even after dark.
I did once
venture with student friends to a dock side pub. While there was no overt
aggression we were made to feel distinctly uncomfortable and left after one
drink. As everywhere the pubs were widely variable. In keeping with the cities
Victorian character there were pubs which retained something of that feel with
lots of etched glass. The stand out pub with this character was the Philharmonic.
This was situated just opposite the Philharmonic Hall, the main concert venue and
base for the Royal Liverpool Philharmonic Orchestra. This pub cultivated
Victorian/ Edwardian décor and was immensely popular on concert nights.
Generally there
were few tall buildings. The ones which stood out were the contrasting Anglican
and Roman Catholic cathedrals. The Anglican Cathedral was as notable for its
sheer size as its height and was in a traditional Gothic style. The Roman
Catholic Cathedral was completely different being an ultramodern truncated cone
with its top surrounded by mini spires. Rather ironically the eye was rather
caught by an immense square tower which was part of the Mersey Tunnel
ventilation. This was set just behind the famous “Three graces” on the
waterfront. ( the Liver building, Cunard Building and Mersey Docks and Harbour
Board building ) In the city centre
there is a tall column with a rotating restaurant at the top. This column is
partly a chimney for the heating of the large shopping complex underneath. As a
special 30th birthday treat we had a meal in the restaurant which enjoyed
magnificent views over Merseyside. Sadly the restaurant closed in the 80’s
because of its vulnerability to terrorism and is now HQ for a radio station..
Although
historic Anglican/Catholic rivalry remained it was much reduced. Traditional football
support remained with Liverpool protestant and Everton catholic. This religious
association has died out. The intense rivalry was illustrated by the Everton
supporter saying she hoped both teams won, “Everton and Everton reserves”. Whether
from religious bias I doubt but most
folk around me were vehement Liverpool supporters. Certainly at that time
Liverpool were doing very well and Bill Shankly ( Liverpool manager ) anecdotes were ever
present. There was his famous quote when asked if football was a matter of life
or death to which he replied it was more serious than that.
The 12th
of July did see Orange day parades by militant protestants but these were small
and in my experience drew small audiences. The pop music heritage, prominent
today, was tiny. Even the Cavern Club ( the Beatles Liverpool venue ) had
closed although NEMS ( Brian Epstein’s shop ) was still open.
Easily the best
part of the city was the approach to
pier head. The river was always active although by this time big passenger
ships were no longer in evidence. Most of the ships were commercial freighters
plus tankers going to the oil terminal just upriver . The Isle of Man ferry was
the most common passenger vessel. The Birkenhead ferry was operated by two
ships crossing in the middle of the river. To sit on the upper deck of the
ferry as it prepared to leave Hamilton Square terminal was to see the city at
its best which only improved as pier head approached and the “three graces” provided
a wonderful frontispiece.
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