Hobbiton

While I admire the character and imagination of J R R Tolkien I’ve never managed to read either the Hobbit or Lord of the Rings. Similarly I find the films rather indigestible being too long and actually a little bit boring.. When I lived in Oxford ( and my youngest daughter studying English ) I took the opportunity to learn a little more about Tolkien. He was a professor of English at the University and before the war was one of a small group of writers who called themselves the Inklings.

The other famous member of the Inklings was C S Lewis who very religious and wrote extensively on religion. He is however best known for his “Chronicles of Narnia” written for children with a religious message. Lewis was junior at the University and Tolkien was probably less than pleased when Lewis became very popular partly through broadcasting on radio during WW11. Lewis was a drinking man and the meetings were in an Oxford pub “The Eagle and Child” known to them as “ The Bird and Baby “. They fell out with the publican and moved to the Flag pub just across the road. Incidentally The Eagle and Child boasts of its association now.

Although both were imaginative writers Tolkien rather looked down on Lewis because his imaginative work was far more thoroughly developed. In particular Tolkien worked out languages for his characters at least partly based on his scholarly knowledge of Old English. This isn’t apparent except in the verisimilitude of the background to the books. Incidentally Tolkien was reputed to begin his lectures at the university in Old English by roaring out “Hwat” at the beginning. Tolkien regretted that England had no myths and legends similar to say the Norse sagas. He felt the Norman conquest had cut England off from its rightful legends. He partly saw his stories as a substitute.

The shire ( where the hobbits live ) is rather similar to the English West Midlands where Tolkien grew up. The hobbit culture is very recognisably English. However the dramatic landscapes of the hobbits journeys in the films is provided by New Zealand. The importance to the country was shown by the use of the NZ army to build the access road and do other heavy work such as bringing in the Party Tree

Both books have been filmed in New Zealand by director Peter Jackson who is very much a local hero. During a tour elsewhere the driver was very keen to regale us with his stories of a young Peter Jackson. The parts of the films I found most enjoyable are in the hobbit village so I was pleased  a few years ago to visit the film set. The Lord of the Rings starts with Gandalf arriving at the village. In the Hobbit, Bilbo Baggins has his house taken over by a series of visitors.  Called Hobbiton the village is quite complete to all external appearances and is a major attraction with many visitors. Spread over many acres the site in rolling countryside embraces the village, The Party Tree and the Green Dragon pub. Originally built in the temporary fashion of a film set, Hobbiton has been refurbished on a more permanent basis. Because the Hobbit houses are largely below ground the village tends to merge into the landscape.

Tours are conducted in groups who form up at a centre about a mile from the site. The hobbit houses which are imagined as tunnelled into the dell sides are just facades. In front of the doors to the hobbit houses are the most charming; gates, letterboxes and seats; all the accoutrements of an old English village one would expect.. The illusion of the hobbit houses is enhanced by chimneys through their roofs, ie from the grass above. Only at one hobbit house does the door open and then just onto a very short tunnel. At the foot of the dell are the gardens with artificial  produce cunningly arranged.

The village meeting area is around the Party Tree which is a massive oak specially transplanted.  Over a bridge above a stream is the Green Dragon pub. This is built human sized so it is possible to walk around to see some of the quirky touches. We visited on a hot still day so I was very pleased to have a drink but because of the crowds this was outside the pub on a shaded platform.

The return is by the sole access road to the tourist centre featuring all the commercialism including a large souvenir shop.

Why is Turtle Wax so expensive?

Because their ears are so small